Glyceryl oleate citrate is a plant or synthetic-derived compound that usually appears as an amber liquid with a mild waxy aroma. We use the plant-derived form of this ingredient as an emulsifier in some of our hair care range, keeping the products smooth and consistent during use.

Glyceryl oleate citrate can be produced by reacting glyceryl oleate (from high oleic plant oils) with citric acid. As an emulsifying agent, this ingredient can be used in personal care products to reduce the surface tension between water and oil ingredients. This helps them mix together for improved consistency, and prevents them from separating again over time.

A group of glyceryl monoesters, including glyceryl oleate (the primary derivative of glyceryl oleate citrate), were assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel in 2004, with a follow-up analysis in 2020. They reviewed their safety for dermal exposure in cosmetics and concluded they are “safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.” This is in a group of compounds also listed by the European Chemical Agency (ECHA) as being readily biodegradable, with low potential for bioaccumulation or aquatic toxicity.

Other names: Glycerides, C16-18 and C18-unsatd. mono- and di-, citrates

Chemical class: Glyceryl Esters and Derivatives

REFERENCES

Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., Marks, J. G., Jr, Shank, R. C., Slaga, T. J., Snyder, P. W., Gill, L. J., & Heldreth, B. (2020). Safety Assessment of Monoglyceryl Monoesters as Used in Cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 39(3_suppl), 93S–126S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966951

European Chemicals Agency (2022). Glycerides, C16-18 and C18-unsatd. mono- and di-, citrates. EC number: 293-173-9 | CAS number: 91052-16-3. https://echa.europa.eu/registration-dossier/-/registered-dossier/18167/6/1
https://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/legal-notice

National Center for Biotechnology Information (2022). PubChem Compound Summary for CID 119058023, Glyceryl 1-citrate 3-oleate. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Glyceryl-1-citrate-3-oleate